So around 2 years was the first time I had come to Japan. At that time I was just going to be here for 3 months and then go on to do more traveling, but the important thing was that it was the end of November when I came. Wanting to have the best experience I could I had done a lot of research and made quite the intensive itinerary, BUT the one thing I was getting recommended online and subsequently completely forgot to add to the itinerary was seeing the Autumn colours (yes I just spelled colors with a ‘u’, what are you gonna do about it?). So this coupled with the fact that I had booked my entire first week to be in Tokyo, meant I wouldn’t have the chance to see them as they were to change colors and runaway before I could get to them.
So ever since that time I have been waiting, patiently, for them to reappear so that I may capture them! And see them in all there glory. My plans were set, and they were finally carried out over this weekend where I went to Takao-san (Mount Takao) and finally got to see the Autumn colours, sort of, but we’ll get to that later. You see Takao-san is the go-to hiking/nature destination for people living in Tokyo wanting to get out, feel surrounded by nature, get some leg work in and see some fantastic views. You can even see Mount Fuji on a good day. It’s only 1 hour from central Tokyo and has direct access by train, so it’s perfect for those wanting some nature but also not wanting to travel too far.
Anyways, I had finally decided this was the time to go and although I had planned this out my other plans for the morning had gotten a little out of hand and ended up getting there around 4:00pm. Given that 5:00pm is now sunset time in Japan I was a little worried about reaching the summit in time to be able to see anything. But alas, I had finally gotten there and guess what I saw on the train in. Lots of trees, and guess what color they were. GREEN. For some reason I assumed Autumn colours just started in early November and I had heard some people talking about the Autumn colours in the supermarket the other day so I just assumed it was now. And assumed I should not have. I was heartbroken, crushed, and most of all devastated. Turns out, it’s in another 2 weeks.
But I wasn’t going to let that ruin my enjoyment of the hike and nature. Nevertheless I needed to hurry if I was to get any of the views I had heard about, and considering the hike normally takes 90 minutes I REALLY needed to hurry. Luckily though, there is a cable car or chair lift that goes halfway up the mountain and cuts that time in half, so I spent the 450 yen ($3-ish dollars) and chose that route. This was honestly really fun, and since the lift closes at 4:30pm I was pretty much the only one going up, which was nice if not a bit lonely. At the half-way point there is a pretty nice view of the city from the Tokyo side of the mountain and quite a few shops, a beer garden and food stands selling famous Takao-san treats like the extra large Takao-san dango.
From there it was a simple walk up the mountainous roads passing another viewpoint and dango stand and made my way to Yakuoin Temple near the summit.
Honestly as temples go in Japan I believe it is quite unique, especially as it’s the first temple I’ve ever seen Tengu statues at, the mischievous supernatural beings found in Japanese folklore (typically red faced and long nosed). From my experience I’ve only seen Tengu in the form of masks in festivals and portrayed in media as tricky, mischievous characters. This was the first time I had seen them at a temple and they were kind enough to pose for me when taking a picture.
In any case the temple was quite large and after seeing the various pagodas and smaller shrines I made my way to the summit. Reaching the summit took another solid 5-minute speed walk through a pitch-black forest path at the top of the temple—no lanterns, just my misguided faith in my non-adjusted eyes to see the path and not to trip over something in the dark. Somehow, I made it just in time to witness the sun going down behind the mountains. And sadly Fuji-san was the only mountain being covered by clouds. But I did manage to experience and capture some amazing views from the top.
